This is just a brief post to address what, for me at least, was a massive concern regarding Torres del Paine, namely, will i be able to eat?!
Torres del Paine is one of the most spectacular national parks in South America, and a must see stop on many itineraries down here. Lots of photos to tempt you are over here, on my other blog- have a look if you need convincing! It is possible to see areas of the park in day trips, but the far more common and rewarding option is to undertake some multiday trekking. The W trek must be one of the most hyped treks on the continent, but it really does live up to everything that is said. Average completion is four days, so how to guarantee you won’t wilt from malnutrition?
Accommodation
Broadly speaking, backpackers have two options for the trek: all out camping, or refugios.
Now if you are to camp (which I did not) in many ways you will find this easier. This is because you will have a stove, and therefore a world of cheap and exciting possibilities that derive from rice! And beans, and soup. I shan’t elaborate on this to much, as it is pretty obvious and breakfast and dinner will be a cinch for you. Lunch is the only meal that is more tricky as you can only use stoves in designated camp sites, so if you are on a long section of trail you need to have OE prepared food (again though, pretty simple- leftovers, anyone?).
Refugio trekkers are a bit different. Note I know that most people doing the trek camp, however the refugios are consistently full, so there are lots of people like me who either aren’t sure they are capable of carrying all that stuff, or just lack experience and don’t want to miss out. The refugios mean you don’t have to carry anything beyond clothes. You can get all three meals prepared for you (lunch bags included). And whilst I was worried, the good news is they will cook gluten free! I notified them in advance, but actually I met one other traveller who only told them as he arrived and wet both enjoyed gf fare. We were the first two apparently! I only ordered evening meals, as I was worried what would happen if I completely relied on the refugios and they weren’t ok, but the other guy had all three meals and one hostel even made him gluten free bread for breakfast! You CAN therefore get all your meals and not give it another thought. But the food isn’t great. At all. And neither is it that nutritious. Most of the time you will be served a version of the ‘normal’ food, minus the gluten element, so it is very plain.
Breakfast and lunch- without a stove
This was so much harder than I thought it would be; food that does not need refrigeration or cooking, and will survive in a backpack. In the end I settled on very simple food supplemented by tasty, energy boosting snacks.
Rice crackers and jam were enough for breakfast, with fruit on the first two days. A previously hostel had helpfully provided individual sachets of jam, which I squirreled away to avoid carrying a whole jar.
Lunch was more rice crackers, but this time with salame and hard cheese. I also had a carrot each day, which survived the bashing around in my bag.
For snacks I had lots of trail mix (home made so it had some nice treats in, like dried strawberries my favourite. There are lots of places to buy dried fruit in Puerto Natales), gf biscuits leftover over from Argentina, crispy puffed corn bars also from Argentina (like compacted sugar puffs) and chocolate.
Tips
Normally that far south in Chile, you are likely to have been in Argentina recently. Stock up on dry goods there, as it is easier and cheaper than in Chile.
If you are worried about cross contamination, obviously camp all the way. Then you have complete control. That being said I did not get glutened and think they made a lot of effort for us tricky people (considering they are up a mountain).
Bring lots of snacks either way, better to have too much than too little.
El Living restaurant in Puerto Natales is perfect to treat yourself when you get back from your trek (or before), with a special and delicious gluten free menu.
Just go for it! Being a coeliac is no barrier to this incredible experience.
Gluten free backpacker 